Tradition reigns at the Boisselier vineyard, where winemaker Julien Duport—who knew he wanted to cultivate grapes by age four—believes in the value of working by hand. The sustainable estate sits at the foot of Mont Brouilly where 10 acres are tended lovingly (and without pesticides) and vines are planted in heat-retaining pink granite, taming the Gamay’s acidity and helping it ripen evenly.